Hi Can you just prepare tutorial about how to edit milkyway? Also if possible can you share the camera and EXIF? All your milky way photos are amazing. Thanks in advance.
Hi, and thanks for looking at my page. I have already made a “blog” describing how I process the Milky Way and you can find it on my web site here;
http://lightcrafter.smugmug.com/About-Nightscapes
Just scroll down until you see “About Processing” and you are there!
Hope this helps,
Wayne
Joshua Tree by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook A Night in Joshua Tree. A photo from the my archives, reprocessed. For more images like this please take a look at my website here .
Question: Do you hire Guides to find locations?
Answer: Do I use guides? Mostly no. Rarely I hire a guide. Sometimes I go with other photographers that know the area. Typically I go to scout an area before I shoot it. I research it on the internet and I have many hiking books for the West and Southwest USA. I thoroughly research the area online and in hiking books.
Many times I see a photograph online that looks like a good night location, and I start researching that location. I prefer to go to places that do not have many people or one that has not received much attention at night. I like to find new places rather than just photograph the classic old ones.
I go there and scout the area out in daylight. I record the GPS track or hike on my smart phone with the Gaia GPS app. It is a very good app.
I check the place out to see if it is suitable for night landscapes. I mark the sites I want to photograph. I then follow the GPS track back there at night. Everything looks different at night. Everything, lol.
I do a lot of hiking at night so it is easy to get lost. Use the GPS! Recording the GPS data is also great for using the next year or later, and also for communicating with other people. For example, there is a good place to photograph that I found in the Bisti Badlands of New Mexico that I found before I used the GPS app, and I never found it again, despite looking several times.
For a big overview of a place that is new to me I might hire a guide to take me around and give me the big picture before I start exploring on my own.
Learn how to use a GPS app on a smartphone! You can get the GPS signal even when you are out of cell phone range. Many of the places I go do not have a cell signal, but GPS still works.
Cheers, Wayne
Dec, 2016
People have asked me a number of questions about equipment, issues, and technique in Nightscape or Landscape Astrophotography. Since many of these questions are recurring, I am going to post the questions and answers here. I’ll answer your questions to the best of my ability!
Q: Very nice panoramic in a wonderful place. One question Wayne, always in your picture I'm looking the airglow, Are you lucking or a special technique? ;-), thanks, Regards.
A: Thanks for looking Gabriel. The answer is both, sometimes lucky, and sometimes processing technique. There is frequently some degree of airglow present, but not always. If the airglow is present then the processing workflow I use does enhance it along with the light pollution. Lots of people try to get rid of the airglow and make the skies more uniform in color to meet their own and others expectations about the night sky. There are actions and workflows to get rid of these colors. Instead I go the opposite direction and enhance them to some degree if they are present. I start in Lightroom and then export to Photoshop. If you make the sky blue from the outset in Lightroom, it covers up most of the airglow and decreases light pollution to some degree. It can also make the airglow and light pollution a less pleasing color. If you initially make the darkest part of the sky a neutral "greyish" in Lightroom it will bring out more colors in the sky near the horizon later in processing. The subtle colors are less suppressed, and when you make the darkest sky more neutral it actually makes the colors of light pollution and airglow a more pleasing color and less of a "ugly" color. I export to photoshop and increase contrast in the sky in curves, and later make the sky bluer at the end. I describe the process here:
http://lightcrafter.smugmug.com/About-Nightscapes
Balanced Rock Panorama on Flickr.
Balanced Rock Panorama, Arches National Park, Utah, USA.
Bell Tower by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website, Instagram, Facebook This one’s a bit abstract. We are looking up at the night sky and Milky Way in a bell tower of an old abandoned Cathedral in Madagascar. There is Low Level Lighting (LLL). The light inside the tower was a Goal Zero Micro Lantern, an omnidirectional light. The light outside was a Cineroid LED light panel set on 4000K and turned to low. ___________________________________________ There is a very large window in the front of the bell tower in the shape of a cross. Most of the glass has been broken out. ___________________________________________ There are 19 images stacked in Starry Landscape Stacker. 14-24 mm lens, 14 mm, 15 sec., f/2.8, ISO 12,800. Thanks for looking, Wayne
Chimney Rock by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Chimney Rock, Escalante, Utah, USA. This was taken during a workshop with Royce Bair. His workshops are highly recommended. Escalante is one of the darker places I have seen in the USA. The sites are very spread out, and there is quite a bit of driving on dirt roads involved, but the scenery is great, and there are relatively few visitors compared to other places. This was taken with a Canon 6D, Nikon 14-24 mm lens at 14 mm, f 2.8, 30 sec, and an ISO of 8000. Phil did a great job of standing still for 30 sec. It's a lot harder than it sounds! Hope you enjoy! All comments are welcomed.
Feeling Small in Big Hogan by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website, Instagram, Facebook This is a vertical panorama in Big Hogan Arch in Monument Valley, Utah. After taking the panorama I photographed myself with the same lens and settings and added it to the panorama in the same position. As you can see, Big Hogan Are is aptly named. It is huge. You feel like you are standing in a cathedral. The hole at the top is actually overhead in reality. The appearance here makes it look like it is in the front wall, but that is the result of trying to fit the inside of a sphere onto a rectangular image. You need a guide to enter Monument Valley at night. If you are interested in a night tour contact Majestic Monument Valley Tours and ask for Quanah. Thanks for all the kind support over the last year, it is much appreciated! A big thank you to the wonderful Flickr family!
In Memoriam by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook IN MEMORIAM:, THE SENTINEL: The Sentinel in Bryce Canyon National Park fell on Nov. 25. It is seen here as the lighted spire just to the right of center. This was taken several years ago in an effort to accentuate the Sentinel. The spire was along the Navajo Trail which can be seen in the lower center of the image. The Sentinel was one of the named landmarks in the park. Farewell!
People have asked me a number of questions about equipment, issues, and technique in Nightscape or Landscape Astrophotography. Since many of these questions are recurring, I am going to post the questions and answers here. I’ll answer your questions to the best of my ability!
Question: I took a chance visit to Joshua Tree this past weekend and took shots until I heard coyotes calling and got scared. My question for you is what wide aspect illumination do you use to get general cover during night shots? I've been using flashlights and as you'll see from the below photo the coverage is not uniform. I got some great results with light from the side (not posted on flickr) but I need something wide angle and low key.Fyi I used to work in theatre lighting so I'm pretty good with types of lighting, I just don't know the best options for close-to-dark photography lighting.
Answer: For small to moderately large areas I used reflected light. I have had no luck with shining a light directly on areas of interest. I use a halogen hand held spotlight, and try to find something off to the side to bounce it off, like another hoodoo or ridge. If you can find something about 45 degrees off to the side you can get some nice shadows, and a feeling of depth. This is what I used mostly in Bisti. You need only 6-10 seconds of light in a 30 sec exposure. Bouncing the light makes it much more even. The halogen lights (not LED) give a nice warm color. This is the one I use:
www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Cordless-Spotlight-Integrated-Cigarette/dp/B00HES8JI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436649113&sr=8-1&keywords=luminar+worktm
The charge lasts about 15 min total, but if you use it 10 sec at a time that is up to 90 exposures. I do take test shots and get everything set up before I use it. There is a small learning curve. Sometimes I just bounce it off the ground. I use a "snoot" on the end of the light to prevent or diminish scatter. That is just a rolled up tube or cylinder of flexible material I place over the end of the light.
www.flickr.com/photos/udijw/2862636559/in/set-72157602232660459/
For bigger areas I use constant on or "static" video lights. They are dimmable LED lights. I place them on a small tripod about 30 - 60 yards away. I use this small tripod:
www.amazon.com/dp/B004W4BAUO/ref=sr_ph_1?m=A2LM6ZPY06LT1N&ie=UTF8&qid=1436649689&sr=1&keywords=small+tripod
It is 42" high and weighs 1 lb, and fits in my luggage and pack easily. If I did not have to take airline flights I would use something taller or bigger. You need to get these lights up off the ground to decrease shadows. The LED lights are to blue, so they come with a warming filter and a diffusion filter. I use both all the time. I tape around the sides to prevent light leaks around sides of the filters. When you see one of these you will see want I mean.The one light I use the most is the F&V Z96 light:
www.amazon.com/HDV-Z96-96-LED-Light-Kit/dp/B003UCGDSS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_421_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=02WSRH8S48KXA07J6GEP
I turn it on low and leave it on and take a photo and adjust accordingly. It is best to place it about 45 degrees off to the side. Here are some others I have tried:
Neewer 160 LED:www.amazon.com/NEEWER®-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436650355&sr=8-2&keywords=video+light+neewer
This one is usually too bright even at low settings.Ones I have tried recently and like:
Neewer 56 LED:www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B3SISO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
It's dimmable, light, and pretty powerful, and costs $20. I like it a lot.
Newer 36 LED:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YQP3TE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
It's small, dimmable, and pretty powerful, about $19. I place it inside arches and small spaces. If it is still too bright I place a cloth napkin, or handkerchief, or lens cloth, or even paper napkins over the front to damp the light.Since you are exposing for the stars, it does not take much light. I usually use the on the lower settings and leave them on. You can barely see them in person until your eyes adapt.
Here are more photos from Bisti. For the panoramas I used the video lights. For the individual hoodoos I used bounce light from the halogen spotlight.
lightcrafter.smugmug.com/Nightscapes/Bisti-Badlands-New-Mexico/
Hope this helps! Cheers, Wayne
Ancestral Puebloan or Anasazi Ruins in the Four Corners by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: This is a panorama of Ancestral Puebloan or Anasazi Ruins in the Four Corners region of SW USA. This is made from a series of single vertical images shot at 18 mm, f/2.8, 30 sec., ISO 6400. There is low level constant light on the foreground. This is not classic light painting, but more similar to modified studio lighting or "outdoor studio lighting". It consists of light panels on tripods left on the whole time, very dim, barely visible or not visible to the naked eye. This takes time to set up. The light is intended to match the intensity of starlight (it does not take much!). This different from traditional light painting where you briefly shine a brighter light on the subject or near a subject. I have encountered several photographers at night that just about had a nervous breakdown when you mentioned light painting, but then became very quiet and cooperative when they saw the lighting I set up. I think we need a different "label" for this kind of landscape lighting, different from "light painting". I have decided to personally call this Low Level Landscape Lighting, or LLLL for short. I hope some term other than light painting catches on, as it just does not describe the more recent methods of landscape lighting at night. I doubt that anyone in a studio would describe their lighting as "light painting". We just need some new language to talk about these methods more accurately. Cheers, Wayne Thanks for taking the time to look. Hope you enjoy! Big thanks to the wonderful Flickr family out there. Please join me at: Website Facebook Instagram Blog