Japanese New Wave - Post Punk - Gothic: 1st Selection

Search terms for Mori and Yama Girl, Grimoire Girl/Dolly Kei

This is a work in progress and will change over time. Not every search term will come up with clothing suitable for each fashion, it takes a good eye and some imagination to make it work. It is best to study the best known brands of each fashion to understand what to look for. Google searching the following fashions in japanese give the best results: 森ガール、ナチュラル系、山ガール、グリモワールファッション

A few things to remember: modest clothing, layering, loose fitting clothing that drapes nicely, the right fabric and minimal makeup is absolutely key for mori girl. embellishments, asymmetry, varying colors and textures are also important. Additionally, because of confusion, the biggest difference mori girl and natural kei is the amount of layers.

Mori kei, or 森系 is not a Japanese term. I am unsure of the origin, but it used in Chinese (and searching it in google brings up Chinese results), and westerners use it the same way for example Visual kei, a long known Japanese street fashion is used. For this reason, I have not included it for recommended search terms.

Hama girl, or 浜ガール is not coined in Japan. It was coined by someone on Tumblr, who then aggregated a series of photos of mori girls by the sea. For this reason I have not included it in recommended search terms since it will difficult to find anything.

Yama girl is more a lifestyle than fashion. The term originated in 2009 when the Japanese government was actively promoting trekking around Mt. Fuji.

The terms for dolly kei are based on the fashion around 2010; the store Grimoire has changed since, with an overall lighter palette.

森ガール Magazines: Spoon, Valon

Themes: nordic, amish, boho, bohemian, lagenlook, mennonite, mori girl, mori kei, nautical, rustic, shabby chic, upcycle, loose clothing, vintage, layered

Colors: Main colors are beige, the natural color fabrics like cotton, linen, etc. and shades of brown (from light tea brown, clay to tree bark). Secondary colors are blue, green, rust, earthen colors. Can use blues, reds, yellows, pretty much other colors as well, but in natural tones. Shades of brown matching skin color are also a plus.

CLOTHING Tops: pintuck, crochet vest, oversized cardigans and sweaters, peter pan collar, shawl, flannel, smocked, henley shirt, sailor collar, Bottoms: layered skirt, long flowy skirts, button down skirts, baggy lose denim pants, kapri denim, harem pants, boot cuffs One Pieces: prairie dress, a-line dress, overalls Accessories: lace socks, cotton tights and socks, leather and/or canvas backpacks, straw bags. I’ve seen deer antlers flower crowns and capes in mori girl but it seems to be prominent in western mori girl

MATERIALS cotton, linen, gingham, crochet, knit, patchwork, plaid/tartan, denim, floral fabric, leather, suede, polka dot, wool, gauze, muslin, chintz fabric

EMBELLISHMENTS cotton lace (especially eyelet), tulle, wood buttons

HOUSE/ROOM DECORATIONS knick knack, kitsch, knotty pine, rustic, country home living

MASCOTS Muumin, Little Bear, Where the Wild Things Are

SHOES round toes are very common in mori girl. combat boots, mary janes, desert boots, duck feet boots, penny loafers, moccasins, moc toe boots, oxfords, wood clogs, espadrilles, sheepskin boots (ugg, bearpaw, etc)

BRANDS Clothing: Wonder Rocket, Favorite One, Onepi-C, Dearli Shoes: A lot of comfort shoe brands are suitable for mori girl. Some examples are Birkenstock, Dansko (they are advertised in moi girl magazines), Born/BoC, Clarks, Taos, Blowfish (some styles are made out of linen) Accessories: same as clothing brands

山ガール Magazines: Randonee, falo

Themes: mountaineering, rustic, nordic, hiking, camping

Colors: Yama girl uses a lot of neon colors because for safety reasons during hiking. So there arent set colors.

CLOTHING Tops: flannel vests, Bottoms: mountain skirt, compression tights One Pieces: Accessories: leather canvas backpacks, hiking backpacks, leg warmers

MATERIALS cotton, wool linen, gingham, plaid/tartan, denim, nordic print, waterproof material (tyvek, gore-tex)

HOUSE/ROOM DECORATIONS rustic pine, knotty pine

SHOES Hiking boots, duckfeet boots, combat boots

BRANDS Clothing:Columbia, North Face, l. l. bean Shoes: Keens, L.L bean, Columbia, Birkenstock Accessories:

Grimoire Girl/Dolly Kei Themes: antique, 1920s, grimoire, eastern european, russian, slovak vintage, victorian, edwardian, catholic themes

Colors: reds

CLOTHING Tops: sailor collar, folk vest Bottoms: One Pieces: dirndl type wear, victorian day dress, peignoir Accessories:

MATERIALS cotton, tapestry, patchwork, plaid/tartan, needlepoint, leather, suede, fur

EMBELLISHMENTS

HOUSE/ROOM DECORATIONS

SHOES Shoe style: wood heels, clogs

BRANDS Clothing:Grimoire, Vintage Gunne Sax Shoes: Accessories:

some KERA (?) mag punk scans I found online :3

i love KERA mag punks, they just always do it right lol

//(*▼▽▼)∩//

Robin-chan in Myojo Magazine, December 1994.

A lolita at Fanime 2006 wears Suppurate System’s rose petal orb necklace (unknown).

tbh my opinion isnt so much that trans men cannot have male privilege. its that the way we understand male privilege is based in cis women, specifically otherwise privileged (esp. otherwise-gendered privilege, i.e gender-conforming/straight/perisex) cis women's understanding of gender as something static and inherent to who you are, rather than something fluid which is, in part, constructed by society and placed onto you separately in every moment.

can a trans man experience (cis) male privilege? yes. can a trans woman? yes. and so can a cis woman! hell, a femme perisex cis woman with a gender neutral name could if she's assumed to be a cis man on a resume. male privilege is not an on/off switch. the idea that it is stems from cissexist understandings of male/female as entirely separate and static categories which everyone can and must be understood through. trans people in feminism are expected to constantly defend and deflect accusations of being Privileged Male Oppressors by promising cis perisex women that our experiences are just like theirs! we don't have any scary opinions that don't align with their worldview! we swear we won't ever make them have to reflect on how being cis+perisex has biased them and potentially made their analysis of gender at all inaccurate! trans experiences are only considered valuable to cisfeminism to the extent that they reaffirm what cisfeminists already hold true. thats why they only ever want to talk about a very simplistic narrative around wages pre/post-transition. its extremely unthreatening to cis people because it presents transness in patriarchy as just going from one cis role to another; it doesn't ask cis feminists to expand their paradigm to include the ways in which trans people are treated as a class and their own complicity in transphobic oppression.

which is why trans men have been getting fucked over by trans-affirmng cisfeminism. because by virtue of having our gender acknowledged, we are expected to forfeit our place in the feminist movement and adopt the role of outsider along cis men*. and its also why trans women and MTX people get fucked over the minute they cannot or refuse to describe their experiences through the one or two approved narratives. cisfeminism cannot tolerate transness-as-transness. it has to be compressed and reduced and diluted into something that fits within a cis-centric framework. we aren't allowed to have nuanced and intersectional conversations about trans men & other trans folks relationship with male privilege, the things we have to sacrifice to there, how fleeting it can be, the fact that for some of us being read as "biologically male" is actively more dangerous than being read as female... if it isn't familiar to cis women, then it means you aren't really oppressed.

*cis men should not be outsiders in feminism either btw but thats another post

Emily the Strange x Gothic Lolita Bible

Vintage Handbags modified with crochet “mold” by Elin Thomas

Murasaki (on the right) wears Antique Beast’s vampire princess op.

You can’t really see her dress in the bottom photos but I wanted to include them to show how it can be styled

Dir en grey in MUSIC WARDROBE Vol. 10