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RECIPE: Coconut Milk Chicken Adobo (from Filipinx by Angela Dimayuga and Ligaya Mishan)

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Adobo is probably the Filipino dish best known and least understood by Westerners. Like the name of the Philippines itself—imposed by Spanish colonialists in the sixteenth century in honor of their king, Philip II—it bears the lexical imprint of a foreign empire. In 1613, a Franciscan friar, attempting to compile a Tagalog dictionary, reached for the Spanish verb adobar to describe the dousing of ingredients with vinegar, to season and pickle. But that technique of preservation, essential in a tropical climate, long predated his arrival. Adobo is an indigenous dish, and one that contains multitudes, with no two recipes alike.

Vinegar is the constant. Here I use coconut vinegar (check out the recipe in the book if you’re feeling ambitious and want to make your own!), along with coconut milk and coconut oil—three forms of coconut, to bring silkiness without heaviness. (Coconut milk adobo, or adobo sa gata, is a tried-and-true variation in the Philippines but a little less common in the U.S.) It’s just as good if you substitute rice vinegar or diluted white or apple cider vinegar. And the chicken is just a suggestion: You could roast or steam a whole fish and pour the adobo over it, or sear mushrooms, fresh langka (jackfruit), or big meaty chunks of cauliflower and throw them in as the stew simmers down and turns thick.

Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons coconut oil, store-bought or homemade

2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 pounds (1.8 kg) chicken drumsticks and thighs, bone in and skin on

15 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 cup (240 ml) unsweetened, full-fat coconut milk

½ cup (120 ml) coconut vinegar (store-bought or homemade) or rice vinegar

½ cup (120 ml) soy sauce

8 bay leaves, fresh or dried

1 whole fresh serrano chile

Steamed rice, for serving

In a large pot, heat the coconut oil on medium until shimmering. Add the whole peppercorns, coarsely cracked black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Lay the drumsticks and thighs in the pan, skin side down, and raise the heat to medium high. Cook for about 5 minutes, resisting the urge to poke and prod; just let the chicken cook undisturbed, until the fat starts to render, melting into the pan, and the skin turns slightly brown. Using kitchen tweezers or tongs, flip over the chicken.

Add the garlic, coconut milk, vinegar, soy sauce, bay leaves, serrano chile, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Let the mixture come to a boil. Put a lid on the pot, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours, stirring occasionally. The chicken should feel loose, almost—but not yet—ready to slip off the bone.

Remove the lid, raise the temperature to medium high, and reduce the sauce by cooking uncovered for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick as velvet.

Serve over rice, to soak up the sauce.

In her debut cookbook, acclaimed chef Angela Dimayuga shares her passion for Filipino food with home cooks.

Filipinx offers 100 deeply personal recipes—many of them dishes that define home for Angela Dimayuga and the more than four million people of Filipino descent in the United States. The book tells the story of how Dimayuga grew up in an immigrant family in northern California, trained in restaurant kitchens in New York City—learning to make everything from bistro fare to Asian-American cuisine—then returned to her roots, discovering in her family’s home cooking the same intense attention to detail and technique she’d found in fine dining.

In this book, Dimayuga puts a fresh spin on classics: adobo, perhaps the Filipino dish best known outside the Philippines, is traditionally built on a trinity of soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic—all pantry staples—but add coconut milk, vinegar, and oil, and it turns lush and silky; ribeye steaks bring extra richness to bistek, gilded with butter and a bright splash of lemon and orange juice. These are the punches of flavor and inspired recipes that home cooks have been longing for.

A modern, welcoming resource for this essential cuisine, Filipinx shares exciting and approachable recipes everyone will wholeheartedly embrace in their own kitchens.

For more information, click here.

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