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Glorious Gems of MP - Tansen, the magical musician of Gwalior

Muhammad Ghaus (or Ghawth) was a 16th century Sufi saint and teacher of the Mughal emperor Humayun. As soon as we reached his tomb, I stood gazing at this marvelous 16th century Mughal architecture originally built by Akbar. Architecturally it is a square base with hexagonal towers mounted with domes at its corners.

It is covered on all sides with beautiful carved stone lattices. There are about 36-37 different intricate patterns and they are so fine, one can gaze at them till eternity.

When admiring the lattices, my eyes fell upon beautiful coloured threads that were tied around the tomb. It is believed that, people who visit this place and tie a knot with colourful threads get their prayers answered. I quickly went to a lattice, tied a thread and prayed with a lot hope and excitement!

The pleasant surprise was when I came to know that also buried in the same mausoleum complex is the great Miyaan Tansen, who drew Sufi influences in his music from Mohammad Ghaus. There’s probably not a single musical soul who hasn’t heard the name of Tansen. Although, what most do not know is that Ghaus was a very important mentor for Tansen.

Tansen was born in Gwalior and hence it is also known as Sangeet ki Nagri (the city of music). Born in a Hindu family, he started his career in the court of King Ram Chand of Gwalior. But Tansen’s music transcended all the barriers of religion, landing him to King Akbar’s court where he was considered one of the Navratnas (Nine Jewels). Tansen is widely considered as the founder of Hindustani classical music as we know it. After his death, he was buried according to Muslim customs by Akbar.

Tansen Samaroh, a national musical fest, happens every year near his tomb. Started in 1985 by the Scindia’s, this festival is held in the memory of Tansen. In this grand extravaganza, many renowned classical singers from all across the country come and deliver powerful performances, building a beautiful and a serene atmosphere, just the way it would have been in Akbar’s time.

Standing in front of the tomb took me back to my childhood and the wonderful legends that I had heard about Tansen from my father. His music is said to have resonated with everyone - from men and women to even animals and birds. Popular legend it that he once sang Raag Deepak (Song of Fire) in the court and the wicks of lamps burst into flame by the sheer power of his voice. And everyone knows that when Tansen sang the Raag Megh Malhar (Song of Rain), it actually rained that day.

Akbar was very fond of Tansen! So much so that once Akbar wanted to ride an elephant but it wasn’t tamed and nobody was unable to control him. Tansen sang to the elephant to calm him down after which the Emperor rode the elephant with utmost ease.

Near the tomb there is a renowned Tamarind tree and my guide said that chewing the leaves of this particular tree makes our voice sweeter to hear. I had to obviously take a few and ruminate on them with an incredible sense of childlike wonder, a wonder about magical tales like these that make our history so rich and popular. And so I chewed on a few leaves and hummed a tune. My guide Puneet ji felt that there was a remarkable transformation in my voice. But of course he was indulging me!

Indian classical music has deep rooted oneness with nature itself. For a few seconds, I wished I was there in the court of Tansen to actually witness this magic for real. I started daydreaming of the day when he sang Raag Megh Malhar - peacocks dancing in the rain the raindrops trickling through the exteriors of the magnificent structure and the courtiers mesmerised by the rhythm of the Raag. And amidst the beautiful flowers in the garden, I was, swirling around, looking up at the sky, letting the raindrops fall on my face. Alas, it was all but a distant dream.

About the artist

Neethi Goldhawk is an independent illustrator and textile print designer who loves drawing all things dreamy, inspired by nature and life. She has illustrated for platforms like Redbull Amaphiko and Launchora. Her pen name (Goldhawk) was concocted in the crowded space of her mind full of absurd characters, who are but little children at heart. She is an avid Tumblr blogger and can be found here

By Neethi Goldhawk

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